North Central Province
Polonnaruwa
The medieval capital of Sri Lanka
Polonnaruwa was the second great capital of Sri Lanka — a magnificent medieval city that flourished from the 10th to 13th century CE after Anuradhapura was abandoned to South Indian invasions. At its height, Polonnaruwa was home to palaces, parks, dagobas, a massive artificial lake and extraordinary Buddha statues — a planned city of remarkable sophistication built in a remarkably short period.
Unlike Anuradhapura, which is spread over an enormous area and partially integrated with a living city, Polonnaruwa's ancient ruins are relatively concentrated and wonderfully preserved. It is one of the best ancient sites in Asia — and it sees only a fraction of the visitors that Angkor Wat or Bagan receive.
The Royal Palace
The ruins of King Parakramabahu's royal palace complex are among the most impressive in South Asia. The seven-storey palace (now reduced to its lower walls) was surrounded by a walled enclosure containing audience halls, bathing pools and administrative buildings. The carved moonstone at the entrance to the audience hall is one of the finest examples of ancient Sri Lankan sculpture.
The Gal Vihara
The Gal Vihara — a series of four Buddha figures carved directly into a single granite face in the 12th century — is the artistic and spiritual highlight of Polonnaruwa. The standing Buddha is 7 metres tall. The reclining figure is 14 metres long. The detail of the carving, the expressions on the faces, and the monumentality of the setting are extraordinary.
Visit in the morning for the best light. The site is peaceful even when busy — people come to worship as well as to photograph, and the atmosphere is appropriately contemplative.
The Parakrama Samudra
The vast artificial reservoir — the Parakrama Samudra, or Sea of Parakrama — was created by King Parakramabahu I in the 12th century by connecting three existing tanks. It covers 2,500 hectares and was used to irrigate the surrounding agricultural land that fed the medieval capital.
Today it provides habitat for extraordinary birdlife. Walking the bund at dusk, with pelicans roosting in the trees and the ruins reflected in the still water, is one of the most atmospheric experiences in Sri Lanka's cultural triangle.
Best Time to Visit
Polonnaruwa is in the dry zone — best visited in the dry seasons of May to September or December to March. Start early, before 8am, to avoid the heat and the main tourist coaches that arrive mid-morning.