Kandy

The Dalada Maligawa — Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic — is the most sacred Buddhist site in Sri Lanka and one of the most important in the world. The temple holds what is believed to be a tooth of the historical Buddha, and has done so since at least the 4th century CE.

The relic is kept in a golden casket within a heavily guarded inner chamber and is not displayed publicly, but the surrounding complex is open to respectful visitors throughout the day. The puja (offerings) ceremonies at 6am, 9:30am and 6:30pm are worth attending — the sound of drummers and the movement of devotees around the shrine room is something genuinely moving.

One of the finest botanical gardens in Asia, established in 1821 on a bend of the Mahaweli River. The 147-acre site contains extraordinary collections of orchids, ferns, palms, spice plants and timber trees collected from across the British Empire.

The Avenue of Royal Palms is particularly striking — 130 years old and perfectly aligned. The orchid house contains some remarkable specimens. The Java fig tree at the garden's centre has a canopy that covers nearly two acres.

Kandy has one of the richest artistic traditions in Sri Lanka. The city is known for Kandyan dancing — a performance tradition incorporating elaborate costumes, drumming and fire-walking that has been practised for centuries. Evening performances are held regularly at cultural centres near the lake.

The city also has a strong tradition of silverwork, woodcarving and batik. The National Museum and the Arts and Crafts Centre near the temple both merit visits. The covered market below the town centre is a good place to find local produce and interact with the city away from the tourist circuit.

Within an hour's drive of Kandy lies some of the island's finest scenery. The road south through Peradeniya and up into the hill country passes through tea estates and spice gardens. Knuckles Mountain Range — a UNESCO biosphere reserve — begins immediately to the north and east, offering extraordinary walking and birdwatching.

Several excellent spice gardens operate on the outskirts of Kandy where you can walk through gardens of cinnamon, pepper, cardamom, clove and nutmeg with a knowledgeable guide. We work with family-owned gardens where the visit feels genuine rather than staged.

Kandy is in the highlands and can receive rain from both monsoon seasons, but it is worth visiting year-round. The driest months are from December to April. If visiting for the Esala Perahera festival, book accommodation many months in advance — the city fills completely during this period.