Southern Province
Galle
A colonial fort city alive with story
Galle Fort is one of the best-preserved colonial fortifications in Asia — a walled city built by the Dutch in the 17th century on a rocky headland at the southern tip of Sri Lanka, where the ramparts still hold back the Indian Ocean. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it deserves every bit of that designation.
Within the walls, narrow cobbled streets connect Dutch townhouses now converted to boutique hotels, galleries, bookshops, tailors and some of the finest restaurants in Sri Lanka. Outside the walls, the fort's ocean-facing bastions offer some of the most beautiful sunset views in the country.
But Galle rewards those who look beyond the postcard. The fort's residential streets are still lived in by local families. The Friday mosque has stood here for three centuries. The lighthouse at the tip of the headland was built in 1939. Walk slowly, look upwards, and ask questions.
History
Galle has been a trading port since at least the 14th century, when Arab, Chinese and Indian merchants used its natural harbour. The Portuguese built the first European fortifications here in 1588. The Dutch captured it in 1640 and undertook the major building programme that created the fort we see today — complete with bastions, ramparts, a grid of streets and Dutch-gabled townhouses.
The British took control in 1796 and added their own layer — the lighthouse, the colonial administration buildings and the cricket ground (one of the most beautiful in the world, set just outside the fort walls).
The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami struck Galle with enormous force. The fort's thick Dutch walls protected much of the historic interior, though communities outside the fort suffered devastating losses. The reconstruction of the surrounding areas is a testament to local resilience.
Walking the Fort
The best way to experience Galle Fort is on foot, without a fixed itinerary. The ramparts — wide enough to walk two abreast — provide a complete circuit of the headland with ocean views in every direction. Dawn and dusk are the most atmospheric times.
The Dutch Reformed Church (1755) contains original Dutch tombstones set into its floor. The National Museum inside the fort has a modest but interesting collection of colonial artefacts. The Galle Market outside the fort walls is one of the best morning markets in the south — worth visiting before 8am.
Food & Dining
Galle has developed one of Sri Lanka's most interesting restaurant scenes. Several excellent restaurants operate inside the fort in converted Dutch buildings — serving everything from Sri Lankan seafood to Italian-influenced menus using local ingredients.
The morning at Galle market provides the best introduction to local eating. Buy a bag of tropical fruit, drink a thambili (king coconut) from a cart, and watch the town come to life. The fish market on the harbour is worth visiting at dawn when the catch comes in.
Surrounding Coast
The southern coast stretching from Galle eastward to Tangalle is one of Sri Lanka's most beautiful stretches of shoreline — a series of headlands, coves, fishing villages and empty beaches that most visitors drive straight through.
Unawatuna, ten minutes from Galle, has a beautiful bay that was one of the island's most popular beaches before the tsunami and has rebuilt substantially. Weligama is famous for stilt fishermen — one of Sri Lanka's most distinctive and photogenic fishing traditions. Mirissa, further east, is the departure point for blue whale watching.
Best Time to Visit
The south-west coast is at its best from November through to April. The south-west monsoon from May to September brings rain and rough seas — whale watching stops and beach conditions deteriorate. The fort itself is worth visiting year-round; the beaches around Galle are decidedly seasonal.